#1 RAW is the way to go. If you have not already then move to RAW files instead of JPEG. As well as giving you complete lossless data than the compressed JPEG’s, they also give you higher dynamic range (ability to display highlights and shadows). Ok, there is post processing involved some of the time and special software but the results are worth it. If you are looking at large prints of your work or even posters then RAW is definitely the way to go. Most DSLR Cameras have the option to shoot in both JPEG & RAW simultaneously which is ideal when starting off. I was nervous about moving to RAW years ago but now the thought of shooting in only JPEG terrifies me. Give it a try!
#2 With the light changing constantly it is difficult to keep track of your exposure values but if you cannot get them spot on it is always best to under expose rather than over expose. Once you over expose it is nearly always impossible to rescue a shot in post-production. However under exposing not only gives you the chance to bring out some of your darks after but it also gives you the rich tones needed for beautiful skies. This is done easily when shooting in Manual mode but if shooting in Aperture mode then using exposure compensation will help bring it down.
#3 Find a great foreground object to add some interest to your photos, a rock, puddle or even a person! Once you have chosen this you can then choose whether to have a crisp clear back ground with an aperture of say f12 or to blur it slightly by have a slightly larger aperture at f4.
#4 Juggle your horizons! When you have a beautiful sky try and include most of it in the photo by having a low horizon, on the lower third of the photo. Then simply reverse this if your foreground is more appealing by having your horizon on the top third so that less sky is apparent. The above advice uses the rule of thirds but never dismiss having your horizon in the centre either, it sometimes works dependent on your contents.
#5 Carrying on from the above tip is a well-known, but not necessarily well used tip….keep your horizons straight. Most cameras come with gridlines to help us out but sometimes through no fault of our own we cannot get the horizon spot on, but that doesn’t mean we should not correct it after. The amount of stunning photos I have seen posted by others of sunsets looking out to sea and the horizon is at an obvious angle just spoils an entire shot. It really doesn’t take long to adjust and can prevent a great photo from being scrolled past.
#5 Carrying on from the above tip is a well-known, but not necessarily well used tip….keep your horizons straight. Most cameras come with gridlines to help us out but sometimes through no fault of our own we cannot get the horizon spot on, but that doesn’t mean we should not correct it after. The amount of stunning photos I have seen posted by others of sunsets looking out to sea and the horizon is at an obvious angle just spoils an entire shot. It really doesn’t take long to adjust and can prevent a great photo from being scrolled past.
#6 When the Sun eventually sets try and stick around for a little bit longer as sometimes afterwards the sky can light up from the cloud reflections up to half hour later. I have had a few lovely ‘sunsets’ without the Sun actually being in them. You do run the risk of being left somewhere in the dark when this happens so also remember to bring your torch!
#7 If you want a ‘starburst’ effect from the Sun then go for a low aperture of f22, this can give that affect without the need to use filters and is a nice effect making the rays of the Sun more clear which adds something to a photo.
#8 Most of you will know that the best Landscape photography is taken after a rainstorm as this washed the pollens and dust from the air and leaves everything in the atmosphere clear. The same goes for sunset photography. Don’t give up hope after a rainy day out with no photos, sometimes the best sunsets come after this type of day and when they do they are pretty spectacular.
#9 You can be in control of the size of the sun! Simply stick to your wide angle landscape lens if you want the Sun to appear small or use a telephoto lens if you prefer it a little bigger, but keep in mind for the latter option you will have to be lots further back than your foreground subject.
#10 Look for objects that reflect the sky colours or indeed the sun itself. It can help in a variety of ways like adding colour to an otherwise boring foreground, complementing the sky above, or making your photo more evenly toned. Large bodies of still water can also give the chance to have a beautiful sky feature twice in the one photo! Always be content aware and look for that object that would look great reflected.